Full Lining

Linings are used throughout the interior of the jacket, including the front panels as well as the back. This gives a thin, silky layer of breathable material around the body to reduce friction.

Half-lined jackets

Usually have lining across the upper half of the back and down the sides of the jacket, but not on the lower part of the back.

Quarter-lined or butterfly jackets

Are similar to a half-lining, but with the lining removed from the sides of the jacket. Only a small panel across the back and the sleeves are lined.

Skeleton lining

Means what it sounds like - as little lining as possible, usually only a small covering in the upper back to protect the suit canvas.

No Lining

Means the body of the jacket gets no lining on the front or back. Sleeves are lined to reduce friction and make the jacket easier to take on and off.

Lined jackets are usually less expensive than unlined because they require less interior finishing. Linings can also be replaced reasonably easily if they wear out, whereas a worn jacket interior means it's time for a new jacket.

Silk is sometimes used to make suit linings, particularly brightly-colored and decorative ones, but it is much hotter than synthetics and bunches easily. Most tailors will only make silk-lined jackets on request, and may try to discourage customers from them.

Suits/jackets that should be lined:

• Business suits in light, delicate wools
• "Three-season" or winter suits
• Cotton sports jackets (they usually benefit from the added stiffness)
• Very frequently-worn jackets

Suits/jackets that should be unlined:

• Lightweight summer jackets
• Loose-weave fabrics like seersucker
• Casual jackets with a deliberately soft shape (stiffens them up too much)